The last week of the fall season each year reinforces decades of a family tradition that my wife’s family, which now includes me and our kids, wait patiently for in anticipation. With the essential stops at Fishetarian in Bodega Bay and Trinks in Gualala, Thanksgiving in Sea Ranch lives up to its promise every year.
Sea Ranch is a popular rental and vacation community along the Sonoma Coast that covers just over 16 square miles (5000 acres), nearly reaching the edge of Mendocino County. In the late 60’s, the architect drew up designs for a very strict landscape and building aesthetic that were inspired by the local indigenous tribe of Pomo Indians, with the mindset of “living lightly on the land.” The look and feel of Sea Ranch architecture instills a sense of peace and quiet like no other.
Each year, we take the winding drive from the East Bay up Highway 1 through Bodega Bay, eventually arriving at whichever rental home my mother-in-law chose for the year. We have packed in my truck the thawing turkey, bottles of Rombauer zinfandel, the blowup mattress for the kids, and a week’s worth of clothes for the five of us. Of course, I also have my camera bag full of film, with my Nikon F3 and my Leica MP with a 35 Summicron.
Without fail, late November in Sea Ranch is rainy. It’s not muddy, but there is an overwhelming tone of dampness, chill, and fresh juniper air. Each rental home is unique, but they all share one thing in common— big floor to ceiling windows.
Every day, from sunrise to sunset, you sit at the bench by the window looking out at the approaching rain storms. The wind howls and the rain pounds against the windows while the Trivial Pursuit is underway by the fire.
When I’m ready for some time outside the rental home, I lace up my boots and drive a few miles north into the town of Gualala. The essential stops include Trinks for brunch, the Surf Market for groceries, and of course, Gualala Video for a movie rental (yes, we still rent movies). A slice at Upper Crust Pizzeria is a must. In years past, I have been abalone diving and spearfishing a short kayak paddle away, but those days are over and I have to buy the rock cod at Surf Market to make my fish tacos.
Back in the home, the kids have WiFi (even though the the cellular signal was plenty strong this year). The grownups crack crab and read whatever novel they stuffed into their bag. We cook, drink, and hike, and we play bingo where lottery tickets go to the winners. It is a family tradition that I have grown to cherish, and I wait patiently all year with plans of meals, turkey brines, and the family photo that never, I mean NEVER, happens.
